The small Eastern Caribbean island of St Lucia surprised me. I expected beaches, rum cocktails and a healthy dose of relaxation – and yes, I found all of those things. But I hadn’t anticipated the island’s incredible botanical beauty.
From the plane window, the island unfurled below me – a lush patchwork of emerald forests, hidden coves and the twin spires of the famous Pitons (two spectacular UNESCO-listed mountains and St Lucia’s most recognisable landmarks) rising steep and proud from the sea.
1. Visit Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens
My first stop was the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, just a short ride from the charming town of Soufrière. The gardens are part of the estate gifted by King Louis XIV in the 1700s and feel wonderfully curated without being overly manicured. Paths wind through towering ferns, fiery heliconias, ginger lilies, bromeliads and giant bamboo, with banana leaves spreading overhead like umbrellas and elephant’s ears and caladiums jostling for space below.
Shafts of light pierce the canopy, revealing hidden blooms and butterflies. It was here I saw my first hummingbird – a flash of purple and green darting between hibiscus blooms, so fast it felt like a trick of the light. At the trail’s end is the famous waterfall – streaked in yellows and oranges from mineral-rich water – a spectacular focal point with tumbling tradescantia covering the surrounding rocks and echoing the movement of the water.
2. Climb the Tet Paul Nature Trail
I wanted to visit the Tet Paul Nature Trail after hearing of the postcard-worthy views of the Pitons. It’s a short hiking trail (around 45 minutes) and is classed as an easy to moderate hike, which is less demanding than climbing the Pitons themselves. The trail offers more than just scenery. It gives a glimpse into the island’s sustainable traditions, with plants used for food, medicine and ritual. Just as we reached the high point, we barely had time for photos before a curtain of rain swept across the landscape – a tropical deluge that soaked us through in seconds. It felt like a baptism into St Lucia’s rainforest heart.
3. Brave the Soufrière ‘Drive-In’ Volcano
Nearby is the island’s famous “drive-in” volcano (I was relieved to learn it hadn’t erupted since 1766!) where steam vents hiss from cracks in the earth and the air is thick with sulphur. Just downhill are the mud baths, where locals and tourists slather themselves in grey clay before washing off in the naturally heated pools. It was messy, mindful and strangely meditative – not unlike a day spent pottering in the garden.
4. Enjoy Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate
A different kind of immersion came at the Hotel Chocolat’s Rabot Estate, where I joined a cacao farm tour. We got hands-on grafting young cacao trees, learned about mulching and companion planting, and tasted the slippery, fruity pulp from fresh pods. Later producing our own souvenir chocolate bars from scratch. For someone who loves growing food and understanding where it comes from, it was both delicious and grounding.
5. Take a ride on the Rainforest Aerial Tram
The Rainforest Aerial Tram in St. Lucia offers a peaceful yet thrilling way to experience the island’s incredible natural beauty from above. As the gondola glides slowly over the canopy, expect sweeping views of lush green forest. Keep an eye out for flashes of tropical birds weaving between the trees, adding splashes of colour to the endless greenery. As the tram ascends, the panorama opens up to reveal rolling rainforest hills and, in the distance, the sparkling blue of the Caribbean Sea. It’s a mix of tranquility and adventure, but isn’t for the faint-hearted.
St Lucia is an island where people live with nature rather than just beside it. I returned home with a renewed appreciation for how plants, soil, wildlife and people are all beautifully connected.
More info: The best time to visit St Lucia is December to April – avoiding the wet season. I stayed at two beautiful hotels in the North of the island, the luxurious Windjammer Landing (windjammer-landing. com) for the first part of my trip, eating delicious food at a different one of the seven restaurants each evening, before moving just along the coast to East Winds resort (eastwinds.com). East Winds is a more intimate hotel, set in its own botanical gardens, and the head gardener gives a tour of the gardens once a week.
Direct flights to St Lucia go once a day from London Gatwick Airport. For more information about visiting the island, head to stlucia.org.
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