Euphorbia is a large genus, with plants ranging from Christmas poinsettias and cowboy cacti to large shrubs like Euphorbia mellifera. The shrubby hardy varieties make excellent garden plants for a range of situations, depending on their size and preference.
Euphorbias are easy to grow, and look exotic and striking all year round. They add structure and texture to a mixed planting scheme, making them a great companion for colourful shrubs and perennials.
How to grow euphorbias
Grow euphorbias in moist but free-draining soil in sun to partial shade. Use them as a foil for other bright colours or as part of a woodland scheme. Mulch annually with leaf mould.
More on growing euphorbias:
Find out how to grow euphorbias, in our detailed Grow Guide, below.
Where to plant euphorbias
Euphorbias generally require a sunny position and fertile, free-draining soil. However, some varieties are tolerant to shade, and will thrive beneath trees and shrubs as ground cover.
How to plant euphorbias
When planting pot-grown euphorbias outdoors, dig a generous hole and add some compost or leaf mould. After firming in your euphorbia, water it well, and add a layer of mulch (a minimum 5cm thick) to keep in moisture and prevent weeds.
In the video below, Monty Don recommends two excellent euphorbia varieties, and details how and where to plant them. He also gives tips on how to propagate euphorbias from cuttings.
How to care for euphorbias
Euphorbias do not require feeding or special care as long as the growing conditions are right. It’s a good idea to cut back flowering stems after the blooms have faded. However, you must always wear gloves when working with euphorbias, as their milky sap irritates the skin and eyes, and is poisonous if ingested.
How to propagate euphorbias
Propagate euphorbias by taking cuttings in spring. Make sure you wear gloves to protect you from the sap.
In the video below, Monty Don shows how easy and rewarding it is to propagate euphorbias by taking cuttings of Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii in spring. He also shares tips on how to keep them fresh, how to plant them and how to protect your hands from the irritant sap.
Growing euphorbias: problem solving
Euphorbias do not suffer from any particular pests and diseases.
Great euphorbia varieties to grow
- Euphorbia x martini ‘Ascot Rainbow’ Bears dark grey-green rosettes of leaves and upright bracts in lime-green with a red eye. They emerge with a pink flush and develop a red-marked, creamy-yellow margin with age. They may also develop pink colouring in winter. The spring flowerheads are variegated green, cream and red. It forms a low, weed-smothering carpet over the ground.
- Euphorbia myrsintes Small and drought-tolerant, E. myrsinites is good for bordering paths or patios, alpine gardens and containers. It has elongated silvery-green fir cones, with pale, silvery green scale-like leaves overlapping all the way along the stems. In early summer these have typical flat heads of yellow euphorbia flowers at the ends.
- Euphorbia x pasteurii A large evergreen shrub, this is a cross between E. stygiana and E. mellifera. It is rounded in shape and slender, with dark-green leaves with white mid ribs, turning red in autumn. Flowers are a bronze-green and sweetly scented. Grow this in free-draining soil in a Mediterranean-style or gravel garden. Cut back spent flowerheads in autumn.
- Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae A dark, evergreen variety that thrives in poor, dry soil in shade, making it perfect for growing under big trees. It spreads by underground runners, eventually forming a low weed-smothering carpet. Lime-green flowers appear from spring to early summer.
- Euphorbia characias subsp. wulfenii An architectural perennial, with bluish-green evergreen foliage and large, dome-shaped, lime-coloured flowers in spring. It’s ideal for growing in a sunny border or gravel garden.
Frequently asked questions
Help! My Euphorbia mellifera has been killed by frost
Euphorbia mellifera is hardy down to around -5ºC but will die back in temperatures that fall below that or after a particularly severe frost. It can look like the plant is dead but it’s not. Leave frosted material where it is until all risk of frost has passed and then remove it, cutting back to firm stems. Euphorbia mellifera will grow back as soon as temperatures start to increase again.
Can I move a euphorbia?
Euphorbias can be transplanted easily enough. Before you dig up your euphorbia, water it thoroughly to dampen the ground and then dig a wide trench around the rootball, keeping as much of the rootball intact as possible. Carefully lift the euphorbia out of the ground and replant it immediately in its new planting hole, watering well. Continue watering daily until you see signs of new growth. Don’t forget to wear gloves when handling euphorbias, as the sap is an irritant and can cause skin and eye damage.
